Pet Care

More Than Just One Flea

Fleas. They’re the tiny little insects that can be the ruin of us all. Ok, that may be a little dramatic, but one flea can quickly turn into hundreds of fleas overnight. Fleas are a serious issue and need to be addressed in a timely manner to avoid future complications. Even more unsettling, if your house becomes infested with fleas the cost for getting them out can be costly, that’s why we recommend stopping fleas before they become an issue. Year-round flea prevention is essential for dogs and cats alike.

How Fleas Affect Your Dog

Flea allergy dermatitis is a common ailment associated with flea bites. Though each bite from a flea can cause minor skin irritation, some dogs can develop an allergy to the saliva of the flea. Just one flea bite can result in significant irritation, itchiness, and aggravation, making for one very unhappy cat or dog. Flea bites can usually be seen most predominantly at the base of the tail, but small red scabs from the flea bites will most likely be present all over your pet’s body.

Tapeworms are another common problems associated with fleas. Although they are not transmitted by bites, fleas cause tapeworm infestations when the dog grooms and ingests a flea carrying the tapeworm larva. We know; ew. After ingestion, the tapeworm larva continues to develop in the dog’s gastrointestinal tract. When developed, the head of the tapeworm will attach to the intestinal wall, and small egg-filled segments periodically break off and are passed out the rectum.

Lastly, flea bite anaemia can occur in severe flea infestations or in tiny puppies. When a flea bites, it feeds on blood and when many fleas are feeding at once significant blood loss can occur. After a while, if a severe flea problem is left unchecked, those same fleas can be the cause of significant blood loss for your cat or dog. At that point, blood transfusions, iron supplementation, and hospitalization can be necessary. Sadly, if the infestation becomes too severe, some pets may not survive the resulting anaemia.

Flea Dirt Explained

You may have heard the term “flea dirt” during your research into fleas. The term can actually be a little confusing. Flea dirt is not dirt at all; it’s actually flea feces. This waste usually looks like little black pepper flakes on cats and dogs. It’s typically easy to spot flea dirt on lighter colored animals, but it can be found easier on darker colored animals along their back or by the space where their tail meets their back. You can also usually spot flea dirt on your pet’s bedding.

How can you find flea dirt on your dog or cat? By separating your pet’s hair and looking at the skin, you should be able to see this flea identifier. There are also special flea combs that will pull out any small objects such as fleas or flea dirt from your pet’s coat. If you’re not sure if you’re looking at real dirt or flea dirt, place a small amount of the substance on a damp paper towel. Flea dirt will make a reddish or down spot as opposed to a deep mud brown color like real dirt.

The Life Cycle of a Flea

The flea’s life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult.

1. Eggs: The adult flea uses your dog as a place to take its blood meals and breed. Fleas either lay eggs directly on the dog where they may drop off or deposit eggs into the immediate surroundings (your home or backyard). Because the female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of its life, the number of fleas present intensifies the problem. The eggs hatch into larvae that live in carpeting, cracks or corners of the dog’s living area.
2. Larvae: The larvae survive by ingesting dried blood, animal dander, and other organic matter.
3. Pupa: To complete the life cycle, larvae develop into pupa that hatch into adults. The immediate source of adult fleas within the house is the pupa, not the dog.
4. Adult: The adult flea emerges from the pupa, then hops onto the host.

·         This development occurs more quickly in a warm, humid environment. Pupa can lie dormant for months, but under temperate conditions, fleas complete their life cycle in about three weeks. The inside of your home may provide a warm environment to allow fleas to thrive year round.

Preventing and Treating Fleas

As one might expect, flea control can be very time consuming, expensive, and difficult. The good news is that currently, with the newer flea products on the market, flea control is much safer, more effective, and environmentally friendly. Current flea control efforts center on oral and topical treatments. These products not only treat existing flea problems, they are also very useful for prevention. In fact, prevention is the most effective and easiest method of flea control.

IGRs also known as insect growth regulators, work to control fleas by interrupting the development of fleas by killing flea larvae and eggs. These products do not kill adult fleas, but they dramatically decrease the flea population by arresting their development. The most common types of IGRs include lufenuron (Program®), Methoprene, and Pyriproxyfen (Nylar®).

Adulticides are a type of flea medications that kill fleas. These include both spot-on and oral products. Spot-on products are usually applied on your pet’s skin between the shoulders. Popular spot-on adulticides include fipronil (Frontline®), imidacloprid (Advantage®), and selamectin (Revolution®). A popular oral adulticide is nitenpyram (Capstar®).

There are a lot of choices when it comes to finding the right flea prevention and treatment for your pet. Did you know that some pet insurance plans can cover the cost of your pet’s flea prevention or treatment? This could help you save big in the future. The best course of action when deciding on medications is to talk to your vet to find the right flea treatment for you and your pet. You should always check with your vet before switching to, or trying a new flea treatment or prevention.

What Are My Options: Grooming

When you take your dog to the groomer, your pet usually comes out looking spiffy. However, grooming isn’t just about looks. Dog haircuts help ensure that your dog stays clean and comfortable throughout the year. Most groomers recommend that you perform dog grooming every 6 to 8 weeks, however, this could depend on the breed of dog, time of year, and desired dog hair style. Knowing your options ahead of time can help you communicate with the groomer and set up a productive grooming schedule.

What Does Grooming Entail?

Grooming is a general expression that may refer to a variety of procedures. This guide to grooming explains that grooming can include bathing, shampooing, blow drying, haircuts, trimming the nails, or expressing the anal glands. You can groom your dog yourself or bring the dog to a professional. Many pet owners feel comfortable washing their dogs or trimming their nails, however, they may not be as proficient at styling their dog’s fur, this is where a good groomer will come into the picture. Sure, you could simply buzz the dog with trimmers but some dogs are extremely sensitive or don’t like the noise. Additionally, you might not know how short or long to make the cut and working around some of the more sensitive areas such as  the paws, tail and face can be difficult. Grooming a dog requires special tools and a lot of practice, but with the right knowledge you can become a home grooming pro.

Typical Dog Haircut Styles

When you go to the groomer, you may just want to lop off some fur to keep your dog cooler in the summer. If you have a particular result in mind, you should know how to use the right “groomer-speak.” When speaking with your groomer always be sure to specify  the length as well as the areas that you want the groomer to trim even if you’re using one of the terms below.

Teddy Bear Trim

According to Pet Helpful, the teddy bear cut is also known as the puppy cut. The length is usually uniform all over the body and is supposed to resemble the length of your dog’s fur when it was a puppy. Typically, the fur is usually left about ½-inch to 1-inch long. The style of the cut around the face may differ. Some groomers leave the hair on the legs longer when they do a teddy bear trim. The hair around the face is often left untouched with this type of style.

Lamb Trim

A lamb trim is similar to a teddy bear cut but with this style the fur on the legs may be cut shorter. The fur around the face may also be trimmed as opposed to left untouched as it would be with the teddy bear style.

Summer Cut

In the summer, you can keep your long-haired dog cool by shearing its fur. A summer cut is usually an all-over short style with some preferring to leave the ear and tail hair longer.

Kennel Cut

Kennel cuts are traditionally very short. Some groomers consider a kennel cut to be the same as a puppy trim so make sure that you know what you’re getting by thoroughly discussing your wants and needs with your groomer prior to starting the appointment.

The philosophy behind a kennel cut is that you would only keep your hunting or show dog’s fur short during the offseason. Hunting dogs may need to keep their long coats to protect them from the elements when they’re outdoors and show dogs are meticulously styled during the show season. Longer coats require more upkeep than shorter coats, and some owners prefer to take a break from that maintenance whenever they can.

Breed Cut

Each breed has a traditional cut. Some require more maintenance than others. Breeds that have especially distinct styles are schnauzers, spaniels, and poodles. Our breed profiles can offer a look at what each breed cut is traditionally meant to look like.

Top Knot

Many owners of small dogs prefer to keep the hair on the head pulled into a top knot. This can prevent the hair from getting in the eyes, top knots are often times accented with bows for added style and fun.

Tips for Deciding on Dog Hair Styles

Should you keep your dog groomed with a long or short cut? One thing to consider is your dog’s comfort. Does your dog’s fur get tangled frequently? Does dirt or poop get stuck in the fur? Does your dog’s fur get wet when it urinates? If you answered yes to any of the previous questions, tell your groomer. A professional will be able to cut certain areas to an appropriate length to prevent these issues.

Another factor is the amount of time that you’re willing to spend maintaining the style on a daily basis. Longer fur may require about 10 minutes of brushing each day. However, it could prevent air from getting to the dog’s skin. This could be a problem if your dog has dandruff, hot spots, or other skin condition

Why Should You Groom Your Dog Regularly?

The Kentucky Humane Society explains that there are many reasons besides style to groom your dog regularly. Bathing with products designed for your dog’s skin and fur can remove debris and oils. preventing some skin problems from developing. Another common canine issue is crusty eye. Crusty eyes can be uncomfortable and can even turn into sores and become smelly. A groomer will help you style the fur so that it stays out of the eyes and will assist you in learning how to clean the area properly.

Some areas that are commonly missed while performing at home grooming include the inner ear, the area between the toes, and the undercoat. It’s important to trim the fur deep inside the ears to prevent infection. The fur between the toes can pick up dirt, burrs, debris, ice and mud that can be uncomfortable for the dog, it can also make the dog slip on slick surfaces.

Be Done With Bad Hair Days

What should you do if your dog gets a bad haircut? If the cut is too short, your dog’s sunburn risk could increase. Keep your dog indoors as much as possible until the hair grows out. Remember that the fur will always grow back, your dog’s hairstyle isn’t permanent. Smile, tell your dog that he looks handsome, and get recommendations for a new groomer. Do you ever give your dog hacky or out of this world haircuts? Share your fun haircut adventures with us in the comments below.


Get Out the Duster — How to Prepare for Dogs Shedding in Winter

Every dog owner knows that when spring rolls around, your dog’s fur is suddenly everywhere but on your dog. During the winter, you might think you get a break but you’re still finding dog hair around your home. What gives? Dogs shedding in winter isn’t actually all that uncommon. What kind of dog you have, along with whether your dog lives outside or inside can play a big part in your dog’s shedding cycle.

If you have a breed that is known for it’s thicker coat like a collie or an Australian shepherd, you can expect for there to be a lot of shedding in your home.

These dogs have double coats, meaning both an undercoat made up of softer fur and a topcoat that tends to be coarser to help repel water. Dogs with single coats aren’t as notorious for shedding, but they can still lose more hair than you’re expecting. More fur means more shedding, but what makes these dogs start shedding in the winter?

Why Are Your Dogs Shedding in Winter?

All dogs have a shedding cycle that is controlled by the growth of their hair. When the hairs die, they fall out and regrow causing the cycle to start over again.

However, dogs shedding in winter is mainly caused by the amount of light in the day. Hair growth is stimulated by light, and with daylight decreasing in winter by the day dogs are more apt to begin shedding. In the winter, dogs are shedding their light spring coat to make room for a thick and warm coat that will help them get through the cold season.

If your dog lives outside, this change will be much more prominent because your dog is more directly affected by the changes in light. If your dogs are inside all the time, the lights and temperature are more controlled. This will cause your dog’s shedding to be more regular throughout the year, rather than just in the winter and spring.

The main cause of dogs shedding in winter is that their bodies are making room for a protective winter coat. The more dramatic shedding we all know comes in the spring when this winter coat is no longer needed.

How to Avoid Allergies From Dogs Shedding In Winter

If you’re a dog lover with allergies, you know that your dog’s shedding brings a bit of suffering on your end. Once you’ve made it through allergy season, relief is the light at the end of the tunnel. But when your dogs begin shedding in winter, everything starts falling apart. We know there’s no way you’re going to stop being a dog person, but there are easy ways to keep your allergies at bay so you can finally have the peace you’re looking for.

Start with your home. A clean home is a healthy home, and making sure you’re wiping down surfaces and vacuuming frequently can help keep itchy eyes and a runny nose from becoming a damper on your holiday plans. There are also a few other tricks to keep you breathing easy through the cold winter months.

• If you don’t have one already, consider using HEPA filters in your home. These electrostatic high-efficiency particulate air cleaners can be used throughout your entire home and will help give your home cleaner air.
• Rugs, curtains, upholstered furniture, and even carpet are all places that can harbour dandruff from your dog. Keep these places extra clean or consider keeping your dog out of these areas to minimize allergies.
• Give your dog frequent baths. Twice a month should do the trick, and if your dog acts the same way around water as he does around vacuums, a damp cloth and thorough brushing can help as well.

Products that Aid With Dogs Shedding in Winter

The biggest thing you can do to prepare for dogs shedding in winter is to regularly brush your dog. It may take up a bit of time out of your day, but it will significantly help the amount of hair your dog is losing around the house.

You would be surprised how much hair you can brush off of your dog once you take the time to do it, especially if your dog only has a single coat. But don’t worry, your dog won’t end up naked, this amount of shedding is completely natural. Depending on whether your dog has a single or double coat can affect what type of brush you should use to prevent shedding. When you pick a brush, always make sure you’re getting one that fits your hand so you can easily grip it while grooming your dog.

There are plenty of great products to use for when your dogs start shedding in winter. Here are some of our favourites:

• Shorthaired dogs, like the German shorthaird pointer, benefit best from a soft bristle brush. The bristles will help pull up dead skin and hair but will also be gentle on your dog’s skin.
• Medium coated dogs, like the Golden Retriever need stronger brushes for their thicker coats. A slicker or wire brush will be able to pull through the thick hairs without causing your dog discomfort. When grooming, you should comb your dog’s hair first and then brush.
• For dogs with long hair, like the shih tzu, need daily brushing to keep them mat free and keep from taking over your home with their hair. If your dog does develop mats in their hair a mat rake or shedding comb can help get these out. After that, a comb and a brush daily will work.

So Fresh and So Clean: Top Grooming Tips for Your Dog

Keeping your dog healthy means paying regular attention to bathing, grooming, and brushing. Even dogs with short hair will benefit from this often overlooked aspect of his health. For longhaired dogs, owner grooming is essential if matting is to be avoided. In general, grooming helps to remove flakes of dry skin, dirt, and debris from the hair coat. It also removes shed hairs and helps to stimulate sebaceous glands that condition the dog’s coat.

Grooming is an important aspect of your pet’s health care throughout his life. As your pet ages, taking an active role in grooming becomes even more important. Older pets often groom less, may have trouble cleaning those “hard to reach places,” or may develop skin conditions that require extra attention. You will have to take a more active role in keeping your pet clean and monitoring for any changes in skin and coat that may signal medical problems.

Whether he’s a puppy or a senior citizen, grooming does more than just make your dog look and smell nice. Regular grooming will also help your dog stay healthy and feel better. Now that you know why to groom, here are some tips on how to groom.

The Right Shampoo

You’ve probably seen that expensive dog shampoo at the store and wondered, "Why can’t I just wash my dog with the same shampoo I use?" Quite simply, human shampoos and dog shampoos are not created equal, as dog skin and human skin are not alike.

People skin is more acidic than dog skin, and people have sweat glands and dogs don’t have them on their haired skin. Thus, a shampoo that’s too acidic (because it’s pH-balanced for humans) and/or too harsh (because it’s designed for those with moister skin) can lead to dryness and irritation, the most often observed outcomes of an inappropriate shampoo selection.

But there are more perils than just these. The skin is, after all, a major organ that plays a huge role in immunological defense. By drying the skin we’re stripping the oils and the top layers from an animal’s skin, thereby compromising the body’s natural barrier against infection. And when these defenses are disrupted, the skin — indeed, the entire dog — can become predisposed to infections (usually by the yeast and bacteria that live on the surface of the skin).

The Right Brush

Consider your dog’s hair coat before selecting any grooming tool. Short-coated breeds are best groomed with a soft bristle brush. The brush will pull up any dead hair or skin and distribute natural oils throughout your dog’s coat. The soft bristles are also gentle on the underside of dogs, where the hair coat may be thin and in some areas may even be bare. Brushes range in size, type of handle, and bristle. Choose one appropriate to your dog’s size and coat and one that fits in your hand comfortably.

Medium-coated dogs require a bit more than just brushing. Coats of medium length should be first groomed with a slicker or wire brush to pull up dead hair or undercoat. A slicker brush contains small metal pins set into a rubber backing. They may have a plastic coating on the tip for comfort. A wire brush has small thin wires that are angled at the tip and do an excellent job of combing out loose hair and undercoat. Comb your dog first, and then finish with a good brushing to distribute oil. Some grooming tools are double-sided containing both brush and comb.

Long-coated dogs need the most grooming attention to keep their coats beautiful and healthy. These pets should be brushed every day, just as you would your own hair. If you are attempting to groom a neglected coat, you may want to begin with a mat rake. Mat rakes and shedding combs are designed for loosening matted hair and removing it comfortably, provided it is not matted down to the skin.

Dealing with Mud

Does rainy weather have you cringing in anticipation of your dog dragging in mud? First, take a look at the areas your dog frequents; is there any ground cover? Is there anything you can use to cover the mud? Straw can be messy in and of itself, but it can also cover the mud, is inexpensive, and is biodegradable. Another more expensive, but permanent, solution is to build a patio between the yard and the back door. Ten feet or so of flagstones or concrete can make a huge difference, especially when you top it with outdoor matting made specifically for messy situations. These carpet-type mats (as compared to small welcome mats) have stiff bristles or rubber teeth that are made to get the mud off of shoes or boots and do just as good a job on paws.

Preventing the worst of the mud from making it into the house in the first place is the best idea, but, inevitably, your dog will still get some on him and it will make it indoors. Keep old towels on hand to wipe paws and bellies. Even if the dogs are still damp afterwards, by toweling them off you can keep the dirt to a minimum. Some dog owners have a pail of clean water handy so that each paw can be dipped into it, cleaned, and then dried.

If you allow your dogs access to the furniture, be sure to keep attractive but easily washed blankets on chairs, couches, and beds during muddy seasons. Some dog owners use slip covers for their furniture and this is a great idea too, as long as they go on and come off easily. The slip covers also need to be washable. If you don’t allow your dogs on the furniture, have some dog beds strategically placed so that, when your dog is cold and damp, they’re available. A thick towel over the top of the dog bed can catch most of the dirt.

Dealing with Tear Stains

Tear staining refers to the browning of hairs near the inner corner of the eye. We see tear staining most often in white and light-colored dogs. Most of the time tear staining is normal and not of concern (other than perhaps making the dog appear “less cute” to his owner). Tear staining occurs when a chemical called porphyrin, a breakdown product of blood in the tears, interacts with the light and is oxidized. This causes a brownish stain of the hair at the inner aspect of the eye.

Over-the-counter medications aimed at treating tear staining are a dime a dozen. These products contain the antibiotic tylosin. The problem with this is two-fold. The first issue is that the exact amount of antibiotic in the product is not specified on the label, which means your dog is ingesting an unknown amount of the drug every day. The second problem with these OTC tear-staining medications is the central issue itself: is it even appropriate to use an antibiotic daily for a cosmetic problem? Overuse of antibiotics is responsible for antibiotic-resistance of bacteria in the environment and, in general, bacteria that becomes resistant to tylosin also becomes resistant to other bigger antibiotics.

With the overwhelming majority of tear-staining cases being simply a cosmetic issue, perhaps non-antibiotic treatment could be used instead, though it is admittedly less effective. The simplest treatment is gentle daily washing of this area of your pet’s fur. All you need is warm water and a paper towel, cotton ball, or washcloth.

Shiny Coat Essentials

No matter what breed of dog you have, coat type, or color, the first essential for good skin and coat appearance is proper nutrition. The proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals is crucial. Even if they seem to be more economical, generic brand or store label pet foods are often not made from the quality ingredients your pet needs to stay healthy. Talk to your veterinarian about pet food recommendations; everyone has their favourites and there are many quality brands. If you are formulating your own home-made diet, be sure you have the proper balance of nutrients. Conversely, if your dog is on a balanced diet, overloading with vitamin and mineral supplements may be harmful.

Keeping your pet’s coat at its best means keeping a regular check on internal parasites. Worms can sap essential nutrients from your dog, which would cause the hair coat to lose its luster and quality, not to mention causing other serious health problems. Your veterinarian will recommend a fecal exam during wellness exams to check for parasites. Watch for fleas and ticks too. These creatures can make your pet feel miserable and cause severe scratching, which could damage the coat.

As previously discussed, the right shampoos, combs, and brushes are vital to good grooming. You may also want to consider a finishing spray. Finishing sprays that make the coat slick and shiny are designed for application when your pet is still wet. Most of these sprays contain silicone and function to seal the hair shaft, make it lay down flat, and make combing and brushing easier between baths. Use it sparingly; a little goes a long way.

Top Medical Reasons For Grooming Your Dog

Keeping your dog healthy means paying regular attention to bathing, grooming and brushing. Even dogs with short hair will benefit from this often overlooked aspect of his health. Grooming does more than just make your dog look and smell nice. Here are the top medical reasons why regular grooming will help your dog stay healthy and feel better.

The Better To See You With

Keeping your dog’s face free of long hair that can irritate the eyes will make him feel more comfortable and prevent eye problems. Many dogs, such as the shih tzu, Lhasa apso and poodle, have long hair that hangs in the eyes causing irritation and damage to the cornea. Check your dog to see if there are hairs lying on the eye. These should be trimmed by a groomer, or drawn up in a bow to keep your dog’s face clean and clear. NEVER use scissors or sharp implements around the eyes.

Some dogs have a problem with drainage from the eyes. This problem may have many causes. Check with your veterinarian to help rule out any medical conditions that can be solved. If the drainage is persistent, make sure you keep it wiped away. Skin and fur that stays constantly moist can discolour and become infected.

My, What Big Ears You Have

Those long floppy ears are endearing but they cover your dog’s ear canal creating a moist warm environment that lacks air circulation. This can cause your dog to suffer from chronic ear infections that can be difficult to cure and can re-occur. Cocker spaniels, shar-peis and golden retrievers are just a few of the breeds that suffer from this all too common problem. Infections that go unchecked can result in serious and painful ear disease.

 Learn how to clean your dog’s ears to help prevent these problems. Your veterinarian can show you how to clean them properly and advise you on the use of an ear cleaning solution. Have your groomer shave the hair from the inside of the pinna (the floppy part of the ear) to allow for air circulation, and gently remove any hair that may be growing in the ear canals. Once again, NEVER use scissors or sharp implements in or near the ears. A healthy ear should look and smell clean. Any foul odour, discharge or excessive scratching should be immediately investigated.

Say Cheese

Dental disease in dogs is common. Checking your dog’s mouth and teeth will help you spot trouble before it becomes a big problem. Your veterinarian can show you how to keep your dog’s teeth clean with brushes and toothpastes designed specifically for dogs. Your older dog may not think too much of dental care. If you can’t get him to accept having his teeth brushed, make it a regular habit to check his teeth for tartar, chipping or excessive wear, or any lump or bump that looks suspicious. Dental disease can be very painful and serve as a source of infection for the rest of the body, so check those teeth and tell your dog’s doctor if you find a problem.

Everybody Into the Tub

Most every dog will need a bath a few times a year. This need will vary depending on your dog’s lifestyle, breed and any skin problems he may have. Bathing helps remove old hair, dirt and oil from the skin. The physical action of being washed is pleasant to most dogs and it may make you aware of a lump or bump that may have appeared or changed suddenly.

This is also a good time to check for parasites such as fleas and ticks. Dogs that swim in natural waterways such as lakes, ponds and rivers, or those lucky enough to visit the beach should be rinsed after every outing. There are a lot of different shampoos and conditioners for every type and color of dog. Your groomer or veterinarian can advise you if your dog has special needs. Be sure to protect your dog’s eyes with a little mineral oil or eye ointment before bathing.

Break out the Brushes

Between baths, brushing your dog will help keep the coat clean and free of hair mats. Mats can be irritating and cause skin disease under the hair. Longhaired dogs require everyday brushing to keep their coats healthy. Most dogs enjoy grooming and often wait eagerly to be combed. If your dog’s fur is badly matted, he may need to be shaved. This is a job for a groomer. NEVER attempt to cut of hair mats with a scissors; you may cut the skin as well. As your dog’s hair grows back, begin with daily brushing to keep the new hair soft and tangle free.

Nails

By far the most dreaded grooming chore is trimming your dog’s nails. If you have a young dog, touch her feet and toes often to get her used to having her feet handled. Older dogs often are very frightened by the chore of nail trimming and may be completely uncooperative. Despite their protests, nail trimming is a must. Long overgrown nails often break at the base exposing the nail bed. Walking on long nails can be painful, aggravate arthritis and cause the toes to splay. Long nails can curve around and grow into the pads. A dog walking on overgrown nails is like you trying to walk in swim fins. Your veterinarian will show you how to properly trim nails and claws.

Mentioning the Unmentionable

Lastly, there is your dog’s rear end. Most dog owners don’t make it a habit to check their dog’s bottom but it is an important place to look. Longhaired animals can get feces trapped in the hair surrounding the anus causing an obstruction. Have your groomer keep this area clipped short. Situated to the sides of the anus are two anal glands. These glands manufacture a foul smelling material that is normally expressed when your dog has a bowel movement. These glands can become painfully blocked and infected. Learn to recognize the sign of infection. Scooting is often a giveaway.

Your veterinarian can help keep these sacs empty. And lastly, and most indelicately, your dog’s rear end is a place to attract parasites. It is easy to see fleas here, and those awful signs of a tapeworm infection, small white worms that look like grain of rice or cucumber seeds. Even the nicest dogs can get them. Have your veterinarian look at any suspicious life forms you find.

Puppy Diaries #1: Deciding To Get A New Puppy (0-8 Weeks)

Welcome to the Puppy Diaries! Penned by a respected published author and first-time pup mom Laura Tiebert, the Puppy Diaries series chronicles the ups and downs of pup parenthood: from deciding to get a family dog to celebrating the pup’s milestones, health scares and even a ruined cherished rug. Revealing new pup-parent mistakes and unexpected successes, leading to advice, tips and plenty of humor, the Puppy Diaries will take the reader through the first year of life for Sommer, her pup. Sit, Stay and Enjoy!

Dear Diary,
Today we made the commitment we’ve been tiptoeing around for years. I called the dog breeder and asked her to put our name on the list for an upcoming litter. True confession: My emotions are careening back and forth like a ping-pong ball. I’m scared. And excited. And scared again. What have I done? I’m giddy with anticipation and more than a little anxious. Because I know our lives are about to change – forever.

Going into Puppy Parenthood with Eyes Wide Open

The unvarnished truth about the day I called the breeder? I was a reluctant puppy owner-to-be. Over the years, I’d witnessed friends and family going through all sorts of challenging experiences because of their dogs, some of them expensive (emergency vet calls at 2 a.m., anyone?) and others gut-wrenching (as was the case when my brother’s Sheepdog/Poodle mix was nearly mauled to death by a bulldog in daycares). The puppy love blinders were off, and I was well aware of the reality of dog parenthood.

In fact, two years before I made that call, we’d put down a deposit and had our names on the list to get a puppy. We started picking out names: Scarlet if our pup’s fur was red; Coco if her fur was brown. Months later, with the pups newly born, I got a classic case of cold feet. Although I felt like the world’s biggest curmudgeon, I followed my gut. I called the breeder and backed out, saying the time wasn’t right.

Breaking from the Script 

The kids were disappointed, to say the least. It didn’t help that we’d even received photos of the pups in the litter – teeny tiny fur balls of pure adorableness. Cuteness aside, I simply had too many misgivings. My family had a dog when I was growing up, but as an adult, I was looking at puppy ownership through new eyes. I already felt burdened with enough responsibility for one lifetime. I had a full-time job, my husband was commuting three hours a day for his job, and we had two young boys. Add to that the fact that I can hardly keep a plant alive, much less a living creature (ask Richard, our short-lived hamster who died an untimely death due to a cracked window. Who knew gerbils were so sensitive to a draft?).

And then, life happened, and my husband received a job offer in another state – a job offer that was so good, we couldn’t refuse. My gut feeling was vindicated. That night, with our family sitting around the kitchen table, my husband broke the news to our boys: We’re moving. Our boys broke down in tears. Through his tears, our older son sobbed, “After we move, can we at least get a puppy?”

“Yes!” my husband responded, “Yes, we can.” I looked at him in alarm. “What did you just say,” I screamed inwardly. “You’re going off script! A puppy isn’t part of the deal!” But it was too late. A deal had been struck.

Fast forward a year and a half in our new home later. The family was settled in, and it was time. A deal was a deal — even if I didn’t make the deal.

As it turns out, I was right to seriously consider the timing of taking on a puppy. As my mom sagely put it: “Your life will never be the same.” As much as I hate to admit it, Mom was right.  Our family’s life has forever changed – but in the very best way.

Next Entry: Bringing Our Puppy Home

“The Puppy Diaries” is an ongoing series that explores the journey of pet parenthood, from making the decision to get a puppy, to bringing a puppy home, to the joys and struggles of training, and beyond. Laura Tiebert is an experienced nonfiction writer and first-time puppy parent who lives in Minnesota with her husband, two sons and a new puppy. 

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What We Learned: How to Make a Good Decision About a New Puppy

Do your homework when determining whether to get a puppy (yes, there’s homework involved, if you do it right). My research boiled the decision down to two key factors that determined our ability to be good puppy owners: the availability of time, and money. My advice? If you are short on either, proceed slowly and with caution.

Understanding the Costs of Getting a Puppy

According to the American Pet Products Association, Americans spent an estimated $62.75 billion on their pets in 2016 (and that number is estimated to grow to $69.36 billion in 2017!). Estimates for the cost of a puppy in the first year range from $770-$1,285. There is great variation in cost, depending on whether you’re getting a puppy from a breeder or a shelter.

If you’re getting a puppy from a breeder, that estimated first-year cost can easily double once you add in the price of the dog. From the beginning, I leaned toward working with an ethical breeder, because our family has allergies, and knowing the puppy’s pedigree would be crucial. Once, we’d gotten our son a parakeet, only to have to return it when I found myself horribly allergic to feathers. And this, after I’d had a parakeet for 13 years while growing up! Fortunately, the pet store took pity on me and found a new home for the parakeet. I couldn’t imagine how agonizing it would be to go through something as emotionally wrenching again, this time with a puppy! With the decision made to go with a breeder, my friend’s dog immediately came to mind. I’d fallen in love with her dog. Because my friend’s family breeds Labrador retrievers, I knew that she’d done her homework in selecting a breeder. I filled out the puppy application and awaited a phone interview.

Next up was considering how to estimate a budget for everything from doggie day-care to puppy obedience classes. If you expect to travel, don’t forget to include boarding expenses (although many kennels will not accept puppies until they are at least six months of age), and the occasional dog walker. For our family, the single largest cost beyond that of the puppy was the fence that we’d need to install around our property, to the tune of $1,700. Even setting those one-time costs aside, we came to an estimated budget of about $3,000 a year on an ongoing basis.

While a fenced yard and vaccinations might be budget necessities, many discretionary costs can be curtailed. Your puppy can enjoy a fabulous life without you spending a fortune. A puppy’s life doesn’t have to be filled with constant entertainment or a constant supply of new toys, chew sticks and bones. For example, extend the time between puppy grooming sessions with a daily brushing session. Commit to burning off that natural puppy energy and enthusiasm by taking your dog to the park for 30 minutes every day. You’ll save costs on dog walkers or doggie day-care while building a strong bond of trust and love between you and your pup.

Health care is another key piece of the budget puzzle and a cost that can quickly escalate, while at the same time being difficult to anticipate. In addition to the regular schedule of checkups, vaccinations, neutering and more, puppies, in particular, tend to chew, eat anything in sight, and are often exposed to new treats and foods, which can result in GI tract issues. My sister discovered this the hard way after multiple vet visits revealed that her puppy was allergic to peanut butter. Just in case, we considered the cost of pet insurance a necessity – not an option – and factored it into our budget.

Understanding the Time Commitment

Puppies need discipline, routine and training, and the only way to establish these is to invest time in your puppy. Puppy obedience classes are one great example of a way to spend quality time together in a way that’s fun both for you and your puppy. Watching as a dozen enthusiastic puppies in a room are all trying to do whatever it takes to consume as many treats as canine-ly possible is hilarious and endearing, and seeing your puppy make friends is priceless. Plus, the boost you’ll get from being around other new puppy owners and helpful tips from the instructor will help bring sanity to your life. Regular classes also add much-needed structure and routine to your weeks.

If you want your puppy to grow up healthy and happy (not to mention sleeping a good long stretch each night), she’ll need plentiful exercise. Consider honestly whether you’re willing to forego your relaxation time on the couch after a long day at work in order to take your puppy to the park to throw a ball or for a good long walk around the neighbourhood, no matter what the weather. Exercise can make the difference between having a happy, well-adjusted puppy, and a puppy that barks incessantly, digs in the yard and chews up your rugs – all signs of pent-up energy in search of an outlet.

Speaking of time, are you willing to sacrifice your sleeping time? Many pups are early risers, and when they are very young, aren’t physically able to sleep through the night. Preparing mentally to have some sleepless nights and frustrating moments during housebreaking and training is essential. In the beginning, you’ll need to sacrifice your own personal time and sleep while you train your puppy how to make it through the night.

Next Entry: Bringing Our Puppy Home

“The Puppy Diaries” is an ongoing series that explores the journey of pet parenthood, from making the decision to get a puppy, to bringing a puppy home, to the joys and struggles of training, and beyond. Laura Tiebert is an experienced nonfiction writer and first-time puppy parent who lives in Minnesota with her husband, two sons and a new puppy.